Soundproofing your Aquarium

Soundproofing an aquarium pump or filter motor is relatively simple. It pretty much parallels the methods for soundproofing a pool pump or any such motor pump assembly, but just on a much smaller scale. If the aquarium pump is installed within the pedestal or the base of the aquarium and happens to be water cooled, then soundproofing is simply a matter of wrapping the pump completely with America mat. You can glue Velcro to the mat and thus make a sound control blanket for the pump. If the aquarium pump needs ventilation, then the procedure will require placing the pump motor within a sound control enclosure lined once again with the America Mat. Now many aquarium enthusiasts do not want to wrap their pumps, but would instead like to soundproof the entire enclosure where the pump is positioned, a good idea since most aquarium pedestals are made of wood, and wood transmits sound 1200 times faster than ambient air. This process is also relatively simple. You would line the inside of the aquarium pedestal with the same America Mat, covering all the walls, the bottom and the underneath area where the fish tank sits. And yes, the double doors if applicable. This will definitely quiet an otherwise noisy pump motor. The more mat you use, the better the soundproofing will be, and you will probably not have neurotic fish. The thickness of the mat is also a factor when soundproofing the entire pedestal area. Though I have found that the ½" America Mat works superbly for this application.

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DIY Soundproofing

An amateur builder or basically anyone handy with tools can easily complete the majority of our soundproofing projects. You don't need to be Bob Vila, or Norm Abram to do a wonderful professional looking soundproofing or sound conditioning project. If you are able to listen and read the detailed instructions provided on this website, you will be able to tackle any noise control project like a pro. Sure, you are bound to have questions, and that's what the professional's at Soundproofing America. Inc. are here for. We offer sound and practical advice to the "do it yourselfer" and professional alike. Believe me, I get my share of calls from contractors who have been in the business for over 30 plus years. If you are willing to learn and to admit that you don't know everything about everything, there is nothing you can't accomplish. I have talked musicians through the framing and construction of their garage and basement studio's or practice rooms. These guys admitted that they didn't have a clue about building or soundproofing a room within a room, now they are actually doing soundproofing projects for their friends and fellow musicians. It's not Rocket Science friends! If you want go for it and really feel you can tackle a soundproofing project, the pros at Soundproofing America will be with you every step of the way. That's a promise! There may be a little trial and error action going on at first due to the fact that all buildings and homes are not built equally, but eventually we will get you to where you need to be soundproofing wise. We always do. We will get you there and you won't have to mortgage your house in the process. That's a promise as well!
DIY Soundproofing
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Alternative Mass loaded vinyl installations

There is more than one method for installing mass loaded vinyl to obtain maximum effect. The standard of the industry is to install the MLV directly to the stud or joist framing using an industrial stapler or heavy-duty roofing nails that have the large plastic heads. This method is known as the membrane or septum method. The MLV works well when placed on a wall or ceiling in a membrane fashion. It should never be sandwiched between layers of drywall unless you can provide a dead air space where in the MLV can resonate or move with the sound waves. This can be accomplished with the use 1" furring channels that will allow the MLV to resonate between 2 layers of drywall. For more information on installing mass loaded vinyl over existing drywall, please call or e-mail us before you purchase or install this material. You have a choice of 1lb or 2lb mass loaded vinyl. Obviously the 2 Lb would be more effective (32STC) as opposed to (26 STC) for the 1lb, but it is more costly and that extra cost may not be necessary. A lot depends on your soundproofing issues. Shipping on the 2 LB mass loaded vinyl can also be a factor. It is always better to pick up these materials at the source whenever possible. There is not a lot of information on the Internet in regards to the installation of mass loaded vinyl, hopefully we will be able to separate the fact from fiction. If you are constructing new walls using the staggered stud method, it would be beneficial to actually weave the vinyl in and out of the staggered stud assembly itself. This picture gives you a rough idea of how this would look. The key to weaving MLV (or any barrier material) is to seal the vinyl as best as possible at the seams and around the perimeter. In the case of a horizontal weave (the most common weave) it is best to overlap the seams by at least 1" and seal that overlap with acoustical caulking as well as a quality seam tape. The weaving of MLV also aids in the defusing of sound waves. The weave also allows the vinyl to resonate or move with the sound. As you know, it is important that the MLV be able to resonate in order to work to it's full potential. You can also use the weave on a standard stud wall provided there is no drywall installed on either side of the studs (just to open studs). This weaving method can be hampered however by stud cross members, so it is best to have only vertically installed studs if you are planning to do the weave. If you weave the MLV on a normally studded wall, there also may be problems with the drywall sitting level on the studs. If your studs are 16" on center, then every other stud will have 1/8" of increased width compared to the studs that don't have the MLV woven on top of them. To keep the drywall even on both sides, a sound isolation tape can be adhered to every other stud that that is not covered with the woven MLV, this will make all of the stud surfaces flat and even and the drywall will rest evenly on the studs. From the feedback of our contractors in the field, we have discovered that the more a wood structure is dampened, the better the soundproofing will be in a wall or ceiling assembly. This is especially true for impact noise from above. There are many ways to dampen a wood frame assembly and some are more effective than others. Some contractors have used blown-in cellulose in order to dampen the joist or stud structures, but cellulose has no mass and though it will help to a degree, it is much less effective than using blown-in closed cell foam. We have obtained the best results by installing Roxul mineral wool in the stud and joist cavities. Roxul is a mineral wool sound insulation that also maintains the R factor of thermal insulation. The Roxul can be used along with standard fiberglass insulation in order to completely fill the joist or stud cavities. Once the cavities are filled with the mineral wool you are ready to add the mass loaded vinyl. The MLV will be stapled or nailed directly to the studs or joists. The MLV needs to be like a membrane across the stud or joists. Once this is complete you will need to caulk the seams as well as the entire perimeter of the vinyl membrane, and then tape the caulked seams. It is not necessary to tape the perimeter but caulking this area is essential. Once the sealing of the vinyl is complete, all that is left is to install the drywall. For the best soundproofing, we recommend installing 2 layers of ½" drywall. If this is not possible, then 1 layer of 5/8" fire code drywall will suffice. This has been a brief description on alternative methods of installing mass loaded vinyl. I hope this little article has helped clear up the misconceptions about the installation of MLV.

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Soundproofing A Shooting Range

Many cities and municipalities are looking for more state of the art soundproofing procedures and methods for soundproofing a public, private, or even a home shooting range. The materials used must be impervious to the mist and smoke as well as gunpowder residue and it must be resilient and easy to clean. Some folks feel that convoluted foam mat (basically bedding or egg crate foam) will work in such applications. This is a totally false assumption because convoluted foam is an open celled foam and has no soundproofing qualities whatsoever. Now it does possess the ability to cushion sound and stop it from reflecting off of the firing tunnel walls for example, but mere cushioning does not in any way dissipate or diminish the sound of a firing weapon that generally reflects off the hard concrete or brick range walls. Also keep in mind that common open cell foam is not at all resistant to deterioration or flaking when exposed to water or humidity. So how do you get both absorption and sound blocking from one product, that is impervious to moisture and will stand up the rigors of a live firing range? Many large cities have contacted me desperately looking for just such a material and believe it or not we have exactly what they are looking for. It's the closed cell vinyl nitrile America mat and it has been used in many different ranges throughout the country. It is extremely flame retardant and only absorbs water into the first 6% to 8% of the mat. We have found through real life experience that this absorbed moisture dissipates rapidly and never causes mold, mildew, or deterioration. The America mat is both a blocker and absorber that is extremely resilient and versatile in the shooting environment. The mat comes in thick nesses of ¼" all the way up to 2" thick, but we have found that in most instances the ½" America mat does the job. This foam mat would be adhered directly to the walls and ceiling of the range tunnel and in some cases it would even be adhered to the floor. This will provide complete coverage thus forcing the sound to be absorbed into the mat and with no way out it dissipates rapidly. Major shooting ranges have used this foam mat even on outdoor ranges where the material is exposed to the elements. Now we really don't recommend direct exposure of this material to the elements (especially in the snow), but the feedback we have received in such applications has been favorable indeed. This material has been used in the cities of Boston, New York, Oceanside California, and Kansas City and all the feedback was positive. The thicker the foam, the better the results, but for a basic handgun range, the ½" America mat should be sufficient. There are many other applications for America mat, but one of the most popular is for shooting ranges. It is a phenomenal product. If you have further questions about shooting range soundproofing or about the America mat in general, please feel free to call or e-mail us at your earliest convenience.

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Soundproofing a Shooting Range

Soundproofing a Garage or Basement for a Rock band

Soundproofing a Garage or Basement for a Rock band

Soundproofing a garage involves a little more than you might think. In most garages you have certain things that are working against you when attempting to do an effective soundproofing job. One is the garage door, even the insulated metal doors are not soundproof enough to hold in the sound of a garage rock 'n' roll band, especially if they have acoustic drums. The best and most effective way to soundproof your garage is to actually construct a "room within a room". This will require framing and a bit of construction know how, but as I have said time and again, "It is NOT Rocket Science." Framing out the new room should be done with 2 X 6's (if possible) as opposed to 2 X 4's, though a 2 X 4' frame will work effectively. The reason I recommend the 2 X 6' frame out, is because it will allow for more sealed dead air space once the room is completed. After the framing is completed, including a newly joisted out ceiling, then it's time for some good old 5/8" fire code drywall to be installed on the outer studs and joists. We will be doing the actual soundproofing from within the new room. Once the outside walls and ceiling are dry walled, it is time to go inside of the room and begin soundproofing. The first order of business is to adhere a layer of ¼" closed cell foam to the inside joist and stud cavities. Now remember, we are not filling the cavities, only lining them. The closed cell foam mat can be adhered with a good spray adhesive (such as 3M-77 or 3M-80). There are two different sides to the foam mat, one is smooth and the other is pebbly, you want to glue the smooth side down and have the rough side facing the inside of the cavity. The closed cell foam has a 3-fold purpose. First, it will block and absorb sound, secondly it will block and absorb vibration, but third and most importantly, it will seal off the dead air spaces between the studs and joists. Dead air space is nature's soundproofer, provided it is well sealed. Now we come to a crossroads, if you feel that the sound generated from your band are extremely bassey or there is a lot of vibration from the acoustic drums or the bass guitar, you might opt to float the walls and ceiling. To learn more about floating walls and ceilings, please click onto the links below: Soundproofing against a noisy neighbor Soundproofing a Party Wall If you have determined that a float is not necessary, then the next step would be to staple up a layer of mass loaded vinyl directly to the studs and the ceiling joists. I would recommend using the 1lb per sq ft mass loaded vinyl, or our American Mass Loaded Vinyl for this application. Now I personally like putting up a layer of ½" drywall, or Homasote, or even soundboard prior to installing the MLV, that way the vinyl has a nice flat surface to lay out on, and it is much easier to caulk and tape. However, if there are money constraints or space issues, the MLV can be stapled directly to the studs and joists. You will need to over lap the seams in this case unless by some odd chance, your seams all land on studs and joists. This seldom happens, so the over lap is probably in order. Once the MLV is up, you will need to caulk all of the seams as well as the perimeter of the vinyl. The OSI-175 caulk is an excellent choice for this application. After you have liberally caulked these areas it will be necessary to tape the seams of the butted MLV with either a lead foil tape or a quality seam tape. These can be had from Soundproofing America, Inc. Hey, we're almost finished folks! Now that all the soundproofing is up and sealed it is time for the final layer of 5/8" fire code drywall. This will sandwich in the MLV and will add greatly to the over all soundproofing system. After the drywall is up, you simply tape, mud, and paint as usual. This method of soundproofing a garage works well in a basement also. You should experience some remarkable soundproofing results from the room within a room concept. You have now tamed the soundproofing enemies in your garage and have a place to play or practice at 2:30 AM, which is usually when most musicians get inspired. I know it's when I do. I hope this has helped you in your quest for the perfect garage studio. It has worked remarkably for countless musicians throughout the United States and Canada. Thanks for learning about building and soundproofing a garage studio.

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Soundproofing from a noisy elevator

Soundproofing an elevator or isolating a wall in your apartment or condo from a noisy elevator shaft can be tricky at best. There are a lot of factors to consider. Is the irritating noise simply the cabling system and the motor, or are you on a top floor near the engine room and are dealing with solenoid (impact noise)? Generally a wall can be treated with a barrier material, something like American mass loaded vinyl. So, if you want the ultimate in quiet then it is highly recommended that you use the ¼" MLV which is 2Lbs per sq ft. This material would be stapled or glued (contact cement or a good construction adhesive) to the existing drywall. If the building is an older one and has lath and plaster walls, then gluing is your only real option. Once the Mass loaded vinyl is adhered to the wall/walls, you must caulk the butted seams with the OSI-175 acoustical caulking, you'll also need to caulk the entire perimeter of the MLV. You want this barrier to be as much of a membrane as possible. The next step is to tape the butted seams with a lead foil tape (best) or a quality seam tape (both are available at Soundproofing America, Inc). Once the barrier is up and the seams and perimeter sealed, then you simply over lay the barrier with a layer of 5/8" fire code drywall, tape, mud, and paint the same, and you are finished and should experience some very effective sound blocking results. Now if you are experiencing impact noise from the elevator motor or the solenoid (the Magnetic switch that engages the motor once a button has been pushed) then the soundproofing procedure may require "floating" the wall adjacent to the elevator shaft. To learn more about floating a wall with sound clips and furring channels, please call us if this is the case toll free (877) 530-0139.
Soundproofing an elevator or isolating a wall in your apartment or condo from a noisy elevator shaft can be tricky at best. There are a lot of factors to consider. Is the irritating noise simply the cabling system and the motor, or are you on a top floor near the engine room and are dealing with solenoid (impact noise)? Generally a wall can be treated with a barrier material, something like American mass loaded vinyl. So, if you want the ultimate in quiet then it is highly recommended that you use the ¼" MLV which is 2Lbs per sq ft. This material would be stapled or glued (contact cement or a good construction adhesive) to the existing drywall. If the building is an older one and has lath and plaster walls, then gluing is your only real option. Once the Mass loaded vinyl is adhered to the wall/walls, you must caulk the butted seams with the OSI-175 acoustical caulking, you'll also need to caulk the entire perimeter of the MLV. You want this barrier to be as much of a membrane as possible. The next step is to tape the butted seams with a lead foil tape (best) or a quality seam tape (both are available at Soundproofing America, Inc). Once the barrier is up and the seams and perimeter sealed, then you simply over lay the barrier with a layer of 5/8" fire code drywall, tape, mud, and paint the same, and you are finished and should experience some very effective sound blocking results. Now if you are experiencing impact noise from the elevator motor or the solenoid (the Magnetic switch that engages the motor once a button has been pushed) then the soundproofing procedure may require "floating" the wall adjacent to the elevator shaft. To learn more about floating a wall with sound clips and furring channels, please call the experts at Soundproofing America toll free @ (877) 530-0139.
If there is a need to soundproof the entire elevator shaft itself, please call one of the experts at Soundproofing America, Inc. and they will be happy to help you with this project.

e-mail dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
Soundproofing from a noisy elevator
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Building a soundproof recording booth

There hasn't been much written about sound control booths per se, but the need for this type of structure is growing daily. I get questions from people in big cities asking how they can construct or build a sound isolation booth so they can practice an instrument, or sing loudly. They need a place where they can play an electric guitar or a saxophone or even a set of drums and not disturb the neighbors above or below or to the sides of them. There are also professionals who live in condominiums or apartments who need to do voice-overs at home for film production companies. These booths are also great for the growing population of D. J.'s in this country. If you are in an apartment or condo setting, you might want to make your booth portable or easily dis-assembled. That way if you do have to move, the sound isolation booth can go with you. The best way to construct your booth is to basically frame it out with 2'X4's. You don't want the booth to be too heavy, so 2'X4's are a good choice. You'd frame out the 4 walls to the dimensions desired, and then joist out (frame out) a ceiling for the booth. You will require a floor assembly separate from the floor of the condo or apartment, especially if you are in an upstairs unit. The next step would be to add some sort of wallboard to the outside of the booth: drywall, soundboard, OSB, MDF, (medium density fiber board) or Homasote. Any of these materials should work fine, because the major sound isolation will be taking place on the inside of the booth. Once you are framed out and you have placed a wallboard on the outsides as well as the ceiling of the booth, it's time to soundproof. The first step would be to line the inner walls (between the studs) with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat. America Mat is an excellent choice, and the thicker the better. The mat will be glued to the inside of the stud and joist cavities. Now remember, you are Not filling the cavities only lining them. You will see as this project progresses, that the reason for this foam mat is threefold, 1st it blocks and absorbs sound, 2nd it blocks and absorbs vibration, and 3rd and most importantly, it seals off the dead airspace between the studs cavities and joists cavities of the ceiling. Remember, sealed dead airspace is an excellent soundproofer in itself, so we might as well take advantage of nature's soundproofing. The next step would be to staple up a layer of mass loaded vinyl (MLV) directly to the studs and the joists. Chances are the seams will not land directly on a stud or joist every time, so it is necessary to over lap the seams, caulking the over lapped (MLV) and then finally taping the seams with a quality seam tape. The last step would be to layer up a final layer of wallboard, similar to what was used on the outside of the walls and ceiling. I would also recommend a double layer of the mass loaded vinyl (MLV) on the floor of the sound isolation booth, especially if you are in an upstairs unit. Keep in mind that if the final layer of drywall on the inside of the booth is not feasible or takes up too much precious space, then you can forego the interior wallboard and simply paint the MLV with a vinyl or latex paint. There you have it in a nutshell, a quick solution for musicians, singers and D.J 's who live in apartment or condo settings. This booth is also great for violin and cello practice as well. Even though this narrative was a pretty comprehensive describing sound isolation booths, I am sure you will still have questions or will need to order these products, so please call on the experts at Soundproofing America, Inc. whenever you have any soundproofing questions. The more you know about soundproofing, the more you need the professionals at Soundproofing America, Inc.

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Building a soundproof recording booth
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Building and soundproofing your home theater

In today's rushed world, most people don't have the time or the money to waste taking the entire family to the movies (up to $50 to $60 per shot) so why not build out a Home Theater in your garage, basement, or spare bedroom? The construction and soundproofing of a Home Theater is much the same as would be used in building a soundproof music studio for practice or recording. The only major difference is that with a Home Theater, you are less concerned with sound coming into the Theater than you would be if you were doing recording or voice-overs for a major studio or movie production company. The most effective method for building your Home Theater is to actually construct a room within a room. Basically this means framing out new walls within the existing room. This is a lot simpler than it sounds. If you possess tool skills and are better with them than "Tim Taylor" on "Tool Time", then you most likely are qualified to undertake this project. You will want to frame out new walls within the existing room, this is pretty easy in a basement situation, where at least 2 of the walls are most likely poured concrete or concrete block, and are generally Earthen backed. They need NO soundproofing whatsoever. By framing out the room within a room, you are taking all of the negatives in the room that were working against your soundproofing endeavor, and now making them more friendly in the form of "dead air space". Dead air space (if it is sealed) is good soundproofer in itself, but you will still need a little more soundproofing horsepower if you plan to watch Star Wars or The Matrix (cranked) in your new Home Theater. Once the new walls are framed out, it is time to soundproof. We have found that good batt insulation such as Roxul AFB or Roxul Safe is very effective when placed in the stud and joist cavities. If you are unable to find the Roxul products, then use a good quality rock wool or mineral wool to fill those cavities. The next step would be to adhere a layer of American Mass Loaded Vinyl directly to the stud structure. Attaching the MLV directly to the studs or joists allows the vinyl to resonate or move with the sound. If the MLV is able to resonate, it will work to it's full potential and will give you the sound blocking required for a well-soundproofed theater. The MLV will be stapled (industrial air drive stapler) or nailed (using roofing nails with the large plastic heads) to the studs or joists. If you are able to over lap the seams that would be great, however, if that is not possible, you will want to butt the seams together tightly and caulk both the butted seams as well as the entire perimeter of the newly installed MLV. You want the MLV to act as a soundproof membrane on your walls and ceilings. Caulking and taping the seams is essential for effective soundproofing. The caulked seams will also need to be taped with a quality MLV sealer tape before installing your new drywall. Now it is time to install the drywall. We recommend using 2 layers of ½" drywall for all of the walls as well as the ceiling. Now if this becomes too costly then a single layer of 5/8" fire code drywall will be sufficient. This should complete the soundproofing portion of your home theater. We also carry a complete line of home theater and studio acoustical treatments, so please call us for more information on those. In rare cases, it may become necessary to float the walls or ceiling of your new Home Theater. If you feel that floating the walls or ceiling are in order, then please call the experts at Soundproofing America, Inc. to learn about floating walls and ceilings. It is all about your peace of mind. We know your needs and your concerns, so please don't hesitate to call us. Never forget, the more you know about soundproofing, the more you need Soundproofing America, Inc.

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Building and soundproofing your home theater
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Soundproofing for your Rock band

This is by far the most asked question at Soundproofing America Inc.: "How do I soundproof my garage, basement, or a bedroom in my single family house or condo so my 4 piece rock band can practice and record and not bother the neighbors?" If I had a dollar for every time I was asked this question, I would be in the Bahamas right now, instead of writing this narrative. Many factors need to be considered prior to beginning your studio or practice room-soundproofing project. Some of the questions you should be asking yourself are: what type of amplification will the band be using, are the drums going to be acoustic and miked or are they digital. Are we going to be recording live late at night or are we going to be doing "line in" recording only? These questions and many more need to be considered before the actual construction begins. If live recording and rehearsal are the plan, then maximum soundproofing will be needed. The most effective way to soundproof a garage, basement, or bedroom is to actually construct a room within a room (see www.auralex.com) and download the booklet "Acoustics 101", this is a wonderful resource for the home studio builder. Their ideas are solid and pertinent to any studio soundproofing project. The room within a room concept utilizes the sealed dead air space that is captured between the inner walls and the outer walls to help greatly with the soundproofing endeavor. It is probably easiest to frame the walls on the floor and then tilt them up into place thus making dry walling the outside of the walls much easier. It is also highly recommended that another ceiling be joisted out for the room within a room, however, this is oft times impossible due to space constraints. In this case, the existing ceiling and ceiling joists may be used as the ultimate ceiling for the studio, provide that it is adequately soundproofed with materials such as the American vinyl or a combination of American mat and American vinyl. I will elaborate on these materials, as we get further into this study. Once the walls are framed out and the right amount of "Dead air space" is determined, then it is time to install the soundproofing The first order of business is to consider what needs to be done to the wall cavities prior to installing a barrier and finally the wallboard. I like to line the inside cavities with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat such as American Mat. This mat (generally 1/4" thickness) is adhered to the inside cavity walls as well as the studs and joists (if these areas are opened up) Keep in mind that the American Mat is used to line the cavities only, not to fill them up. If thermal insulation is needed, use products such as rock wool, mineral wool, cut wool fibers, or my favorite, Roxul. Roxul is a great thermal rock wool based bat type insulation that has great soundproofing qualities. If thermal insulation is a requirement for the practice room or studio, then Roxul is the way to go. Now we come to a crossroads, it is time to determine if decoupling the walls using resilient channels or American Sound clips is a necessity. De coupling is used when impact transmission or low frequency noise is a factor. Impact would come primarily from the drums (acoustic type) or the bass amplifier. However, if the band is using Marshall high powered amps (50 watt Plexies with 4 X 12 cabinets for example) along with miked acoustic drums and an Ampeg bass system, then decoupling is most likely necessary. These methods and procedures will be explained in later narratives or can found by calling Soundproofing America on our toll free line. If decoupling were determined to be unnecessary, then the next step would be to find a good barrier material such as American vinyl (which is a high grade mass loaded vinyl barrier). This barrier could be stapled directly to the studwork on a wall assembly or directly to the joists. This is a method that is used if cost or space constraints are factors. If the barrier material is to be stapled directly to the stud or joist framing then it is essential that the seams be over lapped, caulked (using OSI acoustical caulking compound) and taped with either a lead tape or a heavy-duty seam tape. These can also be had from American Soundproofing Inc. Once these areas are treated with the Mass Loaded vinyl (MLV) then it time to decide whether or not it is necessary to float the walls and ceiling to prevent the impact and heavy bass sounds from passing through the solidly barriered walls and ceiling. For more information on ceiling and wall floats, please call the toll free number. The last step for your home studio is to layer over the mass loaded vinyl barrier with a fresh layer of 5/8" fire code drywall or sheet rock. It is always advisable to butter the edges of the last layer of drywall with the acoustical caulk. You'll want to gain every STC (sound transmission class) point you can when trying to make your new studio as quiet as possible. Finally you will tape mud and paint the new drywall. We here at Soundproofing America Inc. are also musicians and we understand the plight of our fellow players. Please feel free to call us anytime for free studio soundproofing advice. We're here to help; it's not about making money off our fellow musician friends.

Soundproofing for your rock band
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Soundproofing For Your Speedboat, Yacht, Cabin Cruiser, Or Large Fishing Vessel

There is nothing worse than being out on the open sea aboard your "pride and joy" (hopefully that would be your boat) and having to put up with excessive marine diesel engine noise, or hull slap as the waves pound at the bow of your craft. Generally it is easiest to treat the problem right at the source, namely the engine compartment or the inner hull area. The best way to do this is to line the walls of the compartment with a mass loaded vinyl (MLV) American vinyl is an excellent choice. You would adhere the vinyl to the engine compartment walls using waterproof contact cement or a quality marine adhesive. It is imperative that all the products used in these areas be waterproof as well as flame retardant. The next step would be to liberally caulk the newly installed vinyl at the seams and around the perimeter. This in itself might be enough soundproofing for most boaters, but for a little extra soundproofing protection, we suggest that you also adhere a layer of the America mat right to the surface of the vinyl. That's right; just glue the America Mat right to the MLV. Sealing the edges and gaps with your waterproof contact cement or marine adhesive. Lastly, always remember to follow the same procedure for the engine hatch or the engine room door (larger vessels). This method of soundproofing can also be used on the inside of the bow below decks. It will minimize the effect of wave slap on the hull areas especially near berthing compartments and crews quarters. That's pretty much the whole story for soundproofing a boat. For further information on Soundproofing a boat, or any other watercraft, please call the Professionals at Soundproofing America Inc toll free. Thanks all, and may you always experience fair winds and calm seas.

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Soundproofing For Your Speedboat, Yacht, Cabin Cruiser, Or Large Fishing Vessel

Soundproofing an Aircraft

There has been a lot written about soundproofing a light aircraft in recent years, but with all the advances in aircraft engine performance and fuselage aerodynamics little has been done to deaden the noise in these more powerful aircraft. Many times sound issues become a major factorwhen you are actually attempting to enjoy the increased performance in your aircraft. Soundproofing is indeed a science, but it is not "Rocket Science". There are companies out there that claim to make pre-cut, or so called "custom" soundproofing kits for your particular breed of Cessna, Piper, Beechcraft or other light aircraft. These kits are oft times extremely expensive and generally lack the sound attenuation to make your flight as enjoyable as possible. My question is simply this, who knows your airplane better than you, the owner and pilot? Your life hangs in the balance every time you power up at the end of the runway. You had better know that aircraft inside and out. You hear where those annoying noises are coming from better than anyone! My point here being that a costly pre-cut kit is not necessary if you know the hot spots on your aircraft and treat them with America soundproofing mat. This material can be adhered with good quality, waterproof contact cement; one with a fungicide is always preferred. You always glue the smooth side of the mat down and have the pebbly side facing the noise source. This mat prevents a condition common to most light aircraft known as "oil canning". Oil canning is the effect of air turbulence, and engine noise that is transmitted throughout the thin aluminum fuselages in today's modern light aircraft. America mat, generally in the ½" thickness is extremely effective at quelling aluminum transmitted noise and vibration (Oil Canning). It is particularly effective when adhered to the actual outer skin of the craft. In areas that we refer to as hot spots, you can use a combination of America Mat with an inner layer of regular Reynolds aluminum foil and then another layer of the America mat adhered to the foil. The Reynolds wrap acts as a barrier and works in conjunction with the absorbtive qualities of the mat. Weight and balance are always a consideration in any light duty aircraft as well as home builds. A half a roll (25 lineal feet, or 100sq ft.) will do most small aircraft such as a Cessna, Piper, or Beechcraft, but when you are looking to soundproof a Bonanza or King Air for example, perhaps ¾ of a roll will be needed for the best result. You have to ask yourself again, are you are enjoying your aircraft to the fullest extent possible? If not perhaps a noisy cockpit is the reason. Please call us toll free for other effective aircraft soundproofing ideas. All of our soundproofing mats meet the flammability requirements found in the FAR 25.853 (C), and they are all UL rated for use in any commercial aircraft, whether taxi or passenger. These materials are readily available at www.soundproofingAmerica.com, by simply calling our toll free number or our new local New York Number.

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Soundproofing an Aircraft

Soundproofing your pool pump and pool filtering system

Now I don't claim to be an expert on pool pumps and pool filter motors, but I do feel qualified enough to explain the methods and materials that would most effectively quell a noisy pool pump or pool filter motor. Generally the best way to sound proof a pool pump is to construct an enclosure made of something other than plywood. Plywood should be used only as a last resort as it is inherently a sound transmitter. The enclosure should be constructed of OSB, MDF (medium density fiber board), or even soundboard. In most cases however, whatever material you use, it needs to be waterproof. Varathane might be helpful in the waterproofing department. Next you would line the inside of the enclosure with a very thick sound blocking and sound absorbing material. Soundproofing America's America Mat is an excellent choice. Also, lining the enclosure first with a barrier such as American Mass Loaded vinyl would nearly double your pump's soundproofing. Always keep in mind that with any electro motive device such as a pool pump (unless water cooled) it will require ventilation. Ducting air onto the box using flexible ducting is always the most desired method for providing ventilation to your newly constructed sound control enclosure. I have actually had customers who have wired in a quiet computer fan at the mouth of the ducting to enhance the air flow to the motor, The flexible ducting is always readily available at a Home Depot or Lowe's stores, and if you are reading this over the internet, then you'll also know where to get a quiet computer fan. Lastly, if the pool pump or filter motors are mounted to a cement slab by the use of lag bolts (or some similar method), then it would be a good idea to use Vibration Isolation Pads as washers beneath the feet or skids of the pump or motor. This will isolate the vibrating pool pump motor from transmitting through the concrete slab. Remember, that concrete is a superb soundproofer in itself, but if sound or vibration is transmitted directly into concrete via heavy duty lag bolts the noise and vibration are bound to be transmitted through the slab and virtually to the place where it becomes a nuisance to you and your family. For more information on soundproofing a pool pump or pool filter motor, please feel free to call or e-mail one of the sound control experts at Soundproofing America, Inc, and as usual, they will be more than happy to advise you on which methods and materials are best to use.

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Soundproofing your home or commercial air conditioner or HVAC unit

Air conditioner compressors come in all shapes and sizes. Some are the quieter (more expensive) type, but others sound like a C-117 Cargo plane is warming up in your backyard, or worst, in your neighbors backyard. There are many things that can be done to quell a noisy AC or HVAC unit. The most obvious is to purchase a compressor known for it's quiet operation. The RUUD A/C compressor with the Copeland Spool technology is a good example. Yet most people would rather treat the noisy compressor with a soundproofing agent, rather than replace the offending unit. Cost is usually a factor in this decision. It's funny, the older an air-conditioning compressor gets, the noisier it becomes, but it actually never seems to lose much of it's efficiency. Sometimes the older they get the better they work. Try to explain that one. Well, back to the subject at hand. Generally it is best to construct a barricade around the AC unit and try to make the height of the enclosure/barricade at least 8' in height for maximum sound blockage. The sound is much LESS likely to climb over an 8' barrier then it would be to climb a 5 or 6' wall or barrier. The surrounding wall or barrier, needs to form an "L" from the edge of the wall of the house, it should jut out anywhere from 3' to 5' and then travel down the length of the house as far as possible. This wall or barrier needs to be lined on the inside (facing the AC unit) with a sound blocking and sound absorbent material. America Mat is an excellent choice that meets all the requirements for soundproofing in this type of application. You would adhere the America Mat to the inside of the barrier wall with waterproof contact cement or any good quality construction adhesive. The seams would also be adhered together with the waterproof cement, or an acoustical caulk such as OSI-175. Depending on the manufacturers instructions, with regards to the compressor's ventilation requirements, there are other effective AC and HVAC compressor soundproofing methods. Sometimes a complete ventilated enclosure would be the most effective soundproofing method. Please feel free to call the experts at Soundproofing America, Inc. if you have any questions or wish to order any of these wonderful soundproofing products. Trust the folks at Soundproofing America for all of your soundproofing needs.

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Soundproofing your car, truck or SUV

For many of us in this modern day world, their car is like a second home. Often times we are confined to our vehicles for long periods of time driving to work or other places. The time spent in our cars can be made much more enjoyable by lessening the amount of noise that we hear inside the passenger compartment. The upper end car lines such as Cadillac and Mercedes have long pursued the soundproofing of a vehicle. The "Cadillac" sound quality can be achieved in any automobile by following a few easy steps to deal with noise in three areas of your automobile. Installation: Cut America Mat to size by using an electric carving knife (like the one the wife uses on Thanksgiving for the turkey). Remove current hood liner and clean the underside of the hood thoroughly, then spray both America Mat and your hood surface with contact cement. Let both the mat and hood get tacky and then apply material. You will find that you will hear a noticeable difference in the noise reduction in your passenger compartment from this simple, inexpensive sound control solution. The second area of concern is the floorboard area of your vehicle. Often road vibration will transmit up through the floorboards of your car causing excessive noise. Using America's Best Mass Loaded Vinyl, a composite of Mass Loaded Vinyl with a sound absorbent closed cell foam mat, can solve this problem. The Mass Loaded Vinyl acts as a reflective material bouncing sound back towards the road while the closed cell foam absorbs sound before it gets to your passenger area. Application: This materials comes in 54" wide material (4 ½') and can be easily placed under your carpeting and spot glued to stay in place. Remember, the foam must face down towards the floor pan of the vehicle. You then seal this material with acoustical caulk, and then reinstall your carpet kit. The third area of reduction is the door panels and headliner. In both of these areas you should use America Mat usually in 1/4" to 3/4" thicknesses. A lot depends on the amount of space you have between the roof of the car and the headliner. The combination of these three steps will result in a significant reduction of noise within your passenger and engine compartments.

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Soundproofing your backyard

You don't find too much information on the Internet with regards to fence soundproofing. Here at Soundproofing America we have proven fence soundproofing techniques that are extremely effective at blocking and absorbing outdoor traffic noise as well as loud neighbors. Generally sound control fences are constructed of cedar or redwood so they can withstand the elements. A soundproof fence needs to be at least 8' above the noise source, though 10' would be even better. You'll need to check city and county ordinances to make sure that you can indeed construct a fence of that height. The first order of business will be to sink your 4" X 4" posts into their concrete footings. Once the posts are set in place, you will then nail up cross members (support beams) that support the slats. Now that your fence is completely framed, we recommend stapling or nailing up a layer of the 1Lb American mass loaded vinyl directly to either side of the fence, and stapling it to cross members as well. This will become the soundproof membrane for the new fence; The MLV requires a dead air space so that it is able to resonate. When the MLV is able to move or resonate with the sound it is then allowed to work to its optimum potential. Now that the vinyl is attached to the fence structure you will then need to caulk all of the seams as well as around the entire perimeter with an acoustical caulking compound. After caulking it is advisable to take a little break and let the caulk set up for a bit (about an hour should be enough). After the break you will want to tape directly over top of the caulked seams with a seam sealer tape.
Now you are ready for your last layer of slats. You do have the option of leaving the MLV exposed, but it is always better to slat over top of the vinyl and will protect it from the elements. This type of fence has proven to be extremely effective in most residential and commercial applications where the transmission of noise from one area to another is an issue.
We have had some customers who have also added a layer of the America Mat closed cell foam to the inside plenum in their soundproof fences. The America mat helps to both block and absorb the noise that would easily pass through a common wood fence. The combination of both the MLV and the closed cell foam would make for an excellent soundproof fence; however the combination of the 2 products could become very costly depending on the length of the fence. The mass loaded vinyl will work just fine and will block the majority of the noise that would other wise penetrate a regular fence. A soundproof fence can afford you the privacy you need in a noisy city or urban environment.
Soundproof fences can also be used to stop the roar of loud outdoor HVAC compressor units that often set atop buildings in the city. MLV can be used in conjunction with chain link fences as well as with the wood slat type fences and other barrier type walls. Soundproof fences can be used to stop the sound of that pool pump motor or a pool filter that's disturbing your next-door neighbor. We at soundproofing America will provide you with the materials and the knowledge to build a very effective soundproof fence. As they say in the trade, "It's not Rocket Science".
All of the products referred to above (except for the wood fence itself) can be purchased at discount prices from Soundproofing America 6 days a week. A soundproof fence can make all the difference in the world to someone who needs privacy in his or her backyard. Read more about fence soundproofing or any soundproofing project at: www.soundproofingamerica.com

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The poor mans wall and ceiling float

When soundproofing your home, cost is always an issue, however doing nothing should never be an option. I'm sure many of you have read the method for ceiling and wall soundproofing using resilient channels or the Americlip and furring channels. These are both great methods for stopping sound transmission from one room to another or from floor to ceiling in a multi level unit. Keep in mind that the sound clips are by far the most effective method, yet they can be costly depending on the amount of area you need to cover. If you are building on a strict budget there is another method that can be used that is not widely known. We here at Soundproofing America call it "The poor man's float" It is a simple method of placing a specialized isolation tape directly onto the face studs or ceiling joists prior to screwing in your drywall. With this method you would not necessarily need to maintain the ¼" gap around the perimeter of your wall or ceiling. Basically this method actually alleviates the direct wall to stud or drywall to joist contact. This procedure, in conjunction with a Roxul (rock wool) or a mineral wool bat sound insulator installed in the wall or ceiling cavity, helps to stop the sound transmission from room to room or from floor to ceiling. The Sound Isolation tape is available from Soundproofing America as are detailed instructions for its installation. This method though not as effective as a full sound clip and furring channel float, it is however still an effective method for soundproofing on a budget. This tape can also be used to give your walls the staggered stud effect, without actually staggering them. Please feel free to call our toll free help line for this and other innovative soundproofing ideas.

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Soundproofing the poor mans float

Soundproofing flooring

I have been getting a lot of requests of late to discuss soundproofing a wood or tile floor in an upper apartment or condo unit. The solutions are pretty simple if you're installing wall-to-wall carpeting, but things get a little more complicated when you're dealing with hardwoods, ceramic or vinyl flooring. To begin with, when a manufacturers STC (Sound Transmission Class) claims appear to be too high always read the fine print. Generally they mean that you can only reach this high STC value in conjunction with a myriad of other products that must to be added to your floor or ceiling assembly. For example, if you're looking at ¼"cork as a floor underlayment and the manufacturer claims that it will give you 55-57 STC, keep in mind that this value will only be attained with at least 3 inches of gypcrete (light weight concrete) poured overtop of the existing sub-floor and most likely the addition of a couple of layers of cement board (Hardy or Wonder board) will be needed as well. All of the STC values of these products are additive and so the manufacturer makes his claim hoping you Won't read the fine print. Even though these values are additive, there is always the law of diminishing returns to contend with, so you still may not reach your goals even though it says you do on paper. Many times the call out for a floor or ceiling assembly is such that ceiling below must be floated on sound clips and furring channels or resilient channels in order to obtain the 55-57 STC values that some manufacturers claim to get from their product. Basically, no soundproofing product on it's own will give you a 55-57 STC value. If you find one that does, please let me know and I'll get it on the website immediately. There are no magic formulas. What it boils down to is simply this, very few products on the market today can give you an STC value greater than 32 to 35 STC on their own, and thus these high STC claims are very misleading to say the least. I had a customer who told me that a 1/8" cork mat would give him an STC rating of 55- 57 when laid beneath carpet and pad. I smiled and had him show me the cut sheet (spec. sheet) for the cork. The sheet called for the addition of a poured gypcrete sub floor and numerous other items that I can't recall off hand, that were needed in order to meet the 55-57 STC. Needless to say, he was shocked. Its back to that old adage, if it sounds too good to be true, it is! That being said, the absolute best way to soundproof an upstairs unit from a lower one is by floating the ceiling in the lower unit using The Americlips and furring channel (hat channel). Click on this link to get more detail on this method of floating a ceiling in a downstairs unit: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/ceiling-soundproofing.asp. There you will find an in-depth guide that gives you detailed information on the proper methods for floating a lower unit ceiling. Another floating method is the use of resilient channel. This is the most common method used by contractors who have done any type soundproofing in their careers. This method, though more economical than the Americlip System, is only about ½ as effective and is generally installed improperly even by the most competent of contractors. The difference in cost for the Americlips is well worth it to effectively soundproof a ceiling from impact or airborne noise from above. Now there are other materials that can be placed over the subfloor above that will help stop impact noise as well as block most airborne noise from below or above. We carry 2 products for this express purpose, one is called American Impact Pro, and the other is called American Impact. These products are specifically designed to be installed beneath hardwood or tile floors and work well under carpet and pad as well. Mass loaded vinyl on it's own is not really good for soundproofing floors, it needs to have a breathing space in order for it to resonate and work to it's optimal best. This can only be accomplished by adding a decoupler to the MLV and that can get costly. When dealing with a hardwood floor, you can also use a product called America's Best, which is a mass loaded vinyl that is bonded to a layer of 1/4" closed cell foam mat. This material will provide a certain amount of floor resilience that's prevents much of the impact noise from traveling downward, however the only way this system will work properly is if the wood planks are at least 6' in length, it is also preferred that planks be interlocking on the sides. The America's Best is a resilient product and will allow the new hardwood floor to actually flex when walked on. This resilience adds to the footfall protection to the ceiling below. Long planked wood floors are the only hard surfaced floors that will work with America's Best vinyl. Other floors such as vinyl or ceramic tile or Pergo floor systems will not work with this product as these surfaces will have a tendency to separate or crack. Finally, if your association board has a call out for IIC (impact isolation coefficient) then you will need to call one the professionals here at Soundproofing America and they will discuss with you the procedures you'll need to follow in order to meet that particular IIC call out. Impact isolation is a whole other chapter in the Soundproofing Bible according to Dr. Bob and will have to wait until next time! Thanks for reading and if you have questions, please give us a call. toll free @ (877) 530-0139

Soundproofing flooring

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Soundproofing windows from traffic and other outdoor noises

Oh, if I only had a dollar for every time I heard this question, how do I soundproof my windows, from neighbors, traffic, and airplane noise? This is a question that will continue to be asked until engineers, Architects and contractors finally realize that this issue is not going to go away by itself. Lawsuits have been filed due the lack of soundproofing in many newly constructed housing tracts, office buildings, and high-rise apartments. The best way to soundproof a window is to simply replace it with a genuine soundproof window. This is much easier said than done, however there are companies who have specialized in soundproof windows for decades. One of these companies is Milgard. Their Quiet line series of windows is an economical and effective method for adding much needed soundproofing to any new construction. They can also be custom designed and installed into any existing window frame or structure. Another option is to install a window insert from a company called "soundproofwindows.com" Their window is basically a very efficient window insert that requires no real construction or major alterations to install it. They claim from 75 % to 95% efficiency. I personally have heard some very good things about their products. The next best solution is to purchase a ready-made window insert from a company called Magnet Seal windows. The Magnet Seal is also an insert, but it is less costly and can be custom fitted to most window frames. Keep in mind that if there are mini blinds or regular Venetian blinds, they will most likely need to be altered or removed altogether. The Magnet Seal insert is removable for those times when you just have to have an open window, no matter what the noise situation is. It is fitted to the window frame via a magnetic track system. Now the last option is one that will block out the light, but is still very effective as a sound blocker and absorber. It is what is referred to as a window plug (patent pending). This is a plug made with 2" closed cell foam mat (2" America Mat is the perfect choice for window plugs) that is cut to fit completely within the window frame itself. It is necessary that the closed cell foam plug be cut 1" larger than to actually linear measurement of the window frame itself. For example, if the window is 3' X 3', you would cut the window plug 3' 1" X 3' 1" so as to have ½" of extra foam around the perimeter of the plug, making the foam plug fit tightly into the window frame, much the same as a cork fits into a bottle. Remember, that the window plug, though quite effective at sound reduction, is still a black vinyl material that will not pass light. The window plug can easily be removed however to allow the light in during the daytime when sound control issues are not so critical. Most of the time window plugs are used at night in bedrooms to allow folks to sleep despite the noise outdoors. At night when you are asleep, light coming in the window is not an issue. The best way to cut this foam window plug to the proper dimensions is to use an ordinary kitchen type electric meat knife, you know, the kind you got for Christmas back in 1982 and have never used since. Well break it out now, it will pay for itself in only one use, believe me. It cuts the foam mat like butter, does not harm the knife and gives you a nice smooth cut even at corners. No frays or ragged edges! How cool is that? Many professional foam installers actually carry an electric meat knife in a holster on their belts. The pros know.

Soundproofing windows
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Soundproofing your bathroom

Now granted, we don't get a lot of calls for bathroom soundproofing, however, there are those of you out there who would rather not hear or deal with (invasive) bathroom noise, especially while trying to sleep. Soundproofing a bathroom is relatively easy due to the fact that it is not really feasible to float walls or ceilings, when bathroom space is so precious. This does not mean though, that you cannot get your bathroom as soundproofed as most 5 star hotels in the world. There are a few simple steps that need to be taken for effective bathroom soundproofing. If the plan calls for the bathroom to be completely gutted, then your have the opportunity to do a great soundproofing job as opposed to a good one. By gutted, I am referring to having the wallboard completely removed to where you are able to get to all the pipes. Once your have stripped the bathroom walls to the bare studs, you will be able to soundproof the pipes with our Ameriwrap pipe wrap. This is a wonderful way to keep unwanted plumbing/toilet sounds from permeating your new bathroom walls. The next step would be to staple up a layer of the American Mass Loaded Vinyl directly to the stud structure. Now if you are dead serious about your bathroom soundproofing, then we highly recommend that you staple up a layer of the ¼" (2 lb per sq. ft.) MLV. This will insure a very quiet bathroom for years to come. Keep in mind, that not even the most expensive or exclusive homes in the United States have this technology, so generally they had to settle for multi-layers of sheetrock, thus taking up more precious bathroom area. The American Mass Loaded Vinyl should be stapled directly to the studs as well as to the ceiling joists (if the ceiling is to be soundproofed also). It will be necessary to over lap the seams and then to caulk in-between the over lapped seam. Once your have caulked all of the over lapped seams, as well as the entire perimeter of the MLV, you will need to tape each seam with either the 5 mil. Lead tape or a quality seam tape. You're doing great so far. Now finally, you'll layer over the MLV with a nice fresh layer of my favorite drywall, 5/8" fire code rock. Here's a little hint, always butter the edge of the drywall with the OSI-175 acoustical caulk, believe me, when you are soundproofing a bathroom, you want every STC point you can get, right? Your last step is to tape, mud, and paint the drywall to match the décor of your bathroom Presto! You now have a state of the art soundproofed bathroom, and will now be the envy of all your neighbors. For more helpful tips on bathroom soundproofing, please call the experts at Soundproofing America, Inc.

Soundproofing your bathroom
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Soundproofing a Teenagers Bedroom

So what ever happened to kids listening to The Beatles, or the Rolling Stones? Teen's today march to a much different beat than most of us did back in the 60's and 70's. The Rap and Hip-Hop music of today has a much more bass (low frequency) sound and instead of singing the lyrics; these artists speak the lyrics with a rhythmic beat. This music can drive a parent or even an older sibling crazy after listening to it for hours on end. What can you do besides forcing the teen to move out? Perhaps soundproofing the wall between your living area and theirs is the answer, but in my opinion, the best remedy is to completely soundproof the teen's room. That way if the music bothers others in the house, they will get relief as well. One method would be to layer over the existing drywall in the bedroom with a material called mass loaded vinyl. American Mass Loaded vinyl is a superb choice as it has the sound blocking ability and is fire retardant. Note: if you are installing the MLV directly over existing drywall, it will be necessary to install 1" wooden furring strips to the stud structure and then attach the MLV to these furring strips. For a standard 8' high ceiling you will need at least 4 x 1" strips, one at the top, 2 in the middle and one at the bottom. With the MLV attached to the furring strips, it will allow the vinyl to breathe and resonate with the sound. This is only necessary when installing MLV over existing drywall. Once the MLV is installed on the furring strips you will need to liberally caulk all seams as well as the entire perimeter. This will insure that the vinyl becomes a sealed resilient membrane. The MLV can be stapled or nailed (roofing nails with large plastic heads) to the furring strips that are screwed to the bedroom walls. The seams of the MLV are butted together or overlapped if possible, and the seams as well as the perimeter of the newly installed vinyl would be caulked with OSI-175 acoustical caulk. You will then need to tape the caulked seams with a lead tape or a sealer tape. If you have tape to spare, then go ahead and tape the perimeter of the MLV, this will help, but is not essential. What we are looking for is the "membrane effect" in the center of the walls and ceilings. The MLV is a reflective barrier that will keep the music within the confines of the teens' bedroom, and keep your sanity intact. Try to have your teen move the stereo or Boom box away from the walls as best as possible, especially if you feel a vibration in the wall while the music is playing. If the vibration is intense, then a wall float may be necessary, for more information on floating the walls, please click on the link below. How to Soundproof a Party Wall This should give you some great insight on the floated wall system. There you have it, instant relief from the bass and beat of Rap or Hip-Hop music. By the way, these methods will also be effective for Metallica, Megadeath, and most other metal music, so there is hope.

Soundproofing a teenagers bedroom
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Soundproofing a party wall (walls between apartments and condos)

Soundproofing a wall between 2 separate living areas is a pretty straight forward deal. If your main concern is with airborne noise (radios, TV's, voices, or Stereos etc.) then adding a barrier such as American Mass loaded vinyl to your existing wall would be your best and most cost effective option. Of course the American Mass Loaded Vinyl would need to be caulked (with OSI-175) at all of the seams as well as around the entire perimeter of the vinyl. Then all of the seams must be taped with a lead tape or a good quality seam tape. Then finally you would layer over top of the American Mass Loaded Vinyl, with a layer of 5/8" fire code drywall. Note: If you are installing American Mass loaded vinyl over existing drywall, it will be necessary to first install 1" wood furring strips to the existing wall. One at the top, one at the bottom and perhaps 2 in the middle evenly spaced out. The MLV will be attached directly to the wooden furring strips with roofing nails (with large plastic heads), industrial staples, or screws. The reason for the furring strips is to allow the vinyl membrane to resonate and thus work to it's full potential. Once the MLV is attached to the furring strips, you will caulk the seams and also around the entire perimeter with an acoustical caulking. Next you will tape the seams with a sealer tape or lead tape. Once this is complete, you will install a layer of 5/8" fire code drywall to the furring strips and into the studwork. Two layers of ½" drywall would even be better. This would most likely solve your airborne noise problems. Now if you have an older dwelling with lath and plaster walls, or the very rustic "horse hair" plaster, it will most likely be necessary to remove the plaster and work directly from the stud work. Plaster removal can be time consuming and very messy. Now let's say that the problem is not merely "airborne" noise, but is in fact impact noise or extremely low bass frequency sounds coming from the subwoofers of a D.J. or a home theater, or even a very high end stereo system from the unit next door. If any of these factors are present, then it will be necessary to float the walls using either resilient channels (RC-1) or better yet, the Americlip. In order to get a clearer description of this method, I would recommend that you read the the article "Soundproofing from noisy neighbors above".

Soundproofing from noisy neighbors above

Soundproofing a party wall
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Soundproofing your condo or apartment from a noisy upstairs neighbor

This is by far the most asked question throughout the entire Soundproofing Industry. It is a question asked by prominent architects, engineers, major developers, and contractors. We are now finding that this is also a major concern of individual homeowners, apartment dwellers, and condo owners alike. How do I soundproof my home from the noisy neighbors above? Many factors need to be considered when assessing an upstairs noise issue. The first question you should ask is simply this, is the problem impact noise, or simply airborne noise (TV's, Stereos, telephones etc.) traveling down from above. Nine times out of ten, impact noise is the main issue. What is impact noise? It is the noise caused by people or animals walking across the floor above (generally hardwood). This type of noise is considered to be structure borne noise and is one of the most difficult noises there is to combat. Impact noise is simply sound that travels directly through the joisting structure of the floor above, directly into the hard mounted ceiling below. Another term for this is known as "foot fall "noise. Impact noise travels through the wooden structure at speeds of over 1200 times faster than the transmission of sound traveling through ambient air. Keep in mind that most home joisting systems as well as studded walls are generally 16 inches on center, so not only do you get the speed of the impact noise heading downward, but the perfectly spaced joists act as tuning forks thus causing the sound to sustain (last longer) compounding the impact problem tremendously. The best and most effective way to stop impact noise from above is to isolate the joist structure and the floor above (which is generally hardwood) from the ceiling below. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways. The most common is to float (suspend on acoustical clips or resilient channels) the ceiling using either resilient isolation clips and furring channels (hat channel) or the most common method of floating, RC-1 (resilient channel). The good, the bad, and the ugly of both these methods will be discussed in depth. First we have the industry standard, which is RC-1 or resilient channel. This is a flanged material (generally with only one attaching smaller flange for the joists) and a larger flange to support the new floated drywall ceiling. RC-1 can be purchased from a drywall supply company, or a contractors supply house. The resilient channels are usually attached perpendicular to the joists and the rows are evenly spaced approximately 2' to 2 ½' apart. The longer flange (of resilient channels) in a ceiling application will all face the same direction to obtain maximum resilience in the new ceiling assembly. Remember, that the longer flange is the one the drywall screws into. Always use screws when you drywall, never use nails. Once the RC-1 is properly installed across the entire ceiling, you are ready to drywall. The new drywall will be screwed directly through the drywall and into the resilient channel's (longer) 1" flange. You will use 1 to 1 ½" self-tapping drywall screws or in rare cases, sheet metal screws. If the new resilient (floated ceiling) is installed as per manufacturers instructions, there will be approximately a ¼" gap around the entire perimeter of the new floated ceiling. The new ceiling must never make direct contact with the adjoining walls. This is NOT negotiable folks. The ¼" gap will be filled in with an acoustical caulking materials, (OSI 175 is a good caulk for this application) and then finally the new ceiling will be taped, mudded, and painted just like a like a hard attached joist mounted drywall installation. The caulk is the interface between the resilient ceiling and the adjoining walls. There you have it, the common mans floated ceiling. Now for your serious ceiling soundproofers, we have the sound clip and furring channel method of floating. This installation is quite similar to the RC-1 installation, however, the sound clips system will more than double the soundproofing and impact isolation protection of a perfectly installed RC-1 install. Basically you will need one sound clip for every 4 sq ft of ceiling area. For example, if your ceiling is 400 sq. ft. total, you will need 100 sound clips to complete the installation. Check with the manufacturers installations instructions for more detailed installation information. Once your have the sound clips screwed to the joists, you will then snap in the furring channel. We haven't talked much about metal furring channels or "hat" channel, as they are commonly called, so let me briefly describe this material. Furring channel, or hat channel is a galvanized channel that is 7/8" in height and measures 2 3/8" from flange to flange. When using furring channels in conjunction with sound clips, you always want to purchase the 25 gauge channels as opposed to the 20 gauge, which is too stiff for this application. The furring channel will be compressed by hand and will snap perfectly into the joist mounted sound clips. The sound clips/furring channel rows will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart (check installation instructions). The first row will begin about 4" from the adjoining wall and, as stated above, each row will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart. Now comes the fun part! You will screw the drywall directly into the furring channel, keeping the screw as close to the center of the hat channel as possible. If the drywall meets directly in the middle of a channel, make sure to stagger the screws down the length of the drywalls (alternate them one each side of the seam). Now, just like the RC-1 installation, you must maintain a ¼" gap around the perimeter of the newly floated ceiling assembly where the drywall does not touch the adjoining walls. Once again, this area will be sealed with the OSI-175 acoustical caulking material, and you will tape, mud, and paint the ceiling as usual. There we have it folks, professional sound isolation at a fraction of the cost that the "Big Boys" charge. A good analogy of the floated ceiling method is to visualize your ceiling to now be a trampoline. The trampoline must not contact the adjoining walls and thus it is free to do its resilient thing exclusively. Keep in mind that the impact isolation is accomplished at the sound clip and joist connection where there is a thick neoprene rubber grommet on the clip that breaks the circuit between the sub floor above and the newly floated ceiling.
Soundproofing from noisy neighbors above
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e-mail scott@soundproofingamerica.com
call toll free (877) 530-0139

Soundproofing with Engineers and Architects

I can't tell you the amount of business we have gotten simply because an Architect's plan or and Engineer's blueprint has called out for our products specifically. However, we want the professional building planners to know that they can call us anytime day or night for practical and timely soundproofing advice, specifications and installation instructions. When professionals deal with other professionals, the learning curve on both ends of the spectrum is satisfied. We at Soundproofing America Inc. thirst for knowledge from the architectural and engineering community. We need that interaction in order to convey real time experiences as well as theoretical concepts to our customers. Soundproofing is a science in itself and most Architects and Engineers don't have the time to pursue every avenue of the soundproofing industry, nor do they know the techniques and materials needed to meet all State or local STC, NRC and IIC standards. That's why we're here. We understand these rating systems and carry the products needed to meet or exceed any call out for soundproofing or sound conditioning in most architectural drawings or blueprints. I challenge the professional community to put Soundproofing America Inc. to the test, see if we don't meet or beat your expectations.

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e-mail scott@soundproofingamerica.com
call toll free (877) 530-0139

Acoustical Treatments for studios and home theaters

An amateur builder or basically anyone handy with tools can easily complete the majority of our soundproofing projects. You don't need to be Bob Vila, or Norm Abrams to do a wonderful professional looking soundproofing or sound conditioning project. If you are able to listen and read the detailed instructions provided on this website, you will be able to tackle any noise control project like a pro. Sure, you are bound to have questions, and that's what the professional's at Soundproofing America. Inc. are here for. We offer sound and practical advice to the "do it yourselfer" and professional alike. Believe me, I get my share of calls from contractors who have been in the business for over 30 plus years. If you are willing to learn and to admit that you don't know everything about everything, there is nothing you can't accomplish. I have talked musicians through the framing and construction of their garage and basement studio's or practice rooms. These guys admitted that they didn't have a clue about building or soundproofing a room within a room, now they are actually doing soundproofing projects for their friends and fellow musicians. It's not Rocket Science friends! If you want go for it and really feel you can tackle a soundproofing project, the pros at Soundproofing America will be with you every step of the way. That's a promise! There may be a little trial and error action going on at first due to the fact that all buildings and homes are not built equally, but eventually we will get you to where you need to be soundproofing wise. We always do. We will get you there and you won't have to mortgage your house in the process. That's a promise as well!
Acoustical Treatments
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www.massloadedvinyl.com
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The Green Glue Calculator

For all you Green Glue fans, there is a new calculator out that tells you exactly how much Green Glue you'll need to complete your job. If you want to use the calculator simply go to: http://www.greengluecompany.com/usageCalculator.html and you can calculate just how much Green Glue you will need for for you project. In other words you will plug in the length, width and the height of a wall or the length and width of your ceiling, and simply plug those numbers into the calculator and it will tell you precisely how much Green Glue you will need to complete your job. This calculator only calculates 50% coverage and 100% coverage. If you need to know how much Green Glue you will need if you are using 3 tubes per sheet of drywall, simply get you complete sq footage and divide that number by 32 which is the sq footage of a sheet of 4' X 8' drywall. Once you have divided the complete sq footage by 32 then multiply that number by 3 which will tell you exactly how many tubes you will need to a 3 tube per sheet application. If you ever need help with your Green Glue application, please call the professionals @ www.soundproofingamerica.com we will be happy to help you calculate the amount of Green Glue you need for you entire project.

www.massloadedvinyl.com
e-mail dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
Call toll free (877) 530-0139

More Soundproofing Information from Soundproofing America

Looking for sound proofing materials, advice and resources? You’ve come to the right place. Soundproofing America is your ultimate sound proofing solution. We have a full range of sound proofing products and accessories to fit any need at the lowest prices. No matter what your sound proofing requirements involve, we can help you get the best possible results on almost any budget.
We carry all industry standard sound proofing materials as well as hard to find sound proofing items such as stud and joint isolators, dBA sound diffusion panels and much, much more. Why spend time looking through multiple websites with limited selection when you can find all the sound proofing materials you will ever need at Soundproofing America?
Contact our sound proofing experts for advice on which products will work best for your situation or look through our extensive selection of free online resources that will answer some of the most commonly asked questions. Whether you are building a studio, constructing a recording booth or simply trying to eliminate outside noise, we have the professional products and experience in the sound proofing field that will help you complete your next project.

www.soundproofingamerica.com
call toll free (877) 530-0139
e-mail dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com

Mass Loaded Vinyl at Soundproofing America

The day that mass loaded vinyl was introduced to the soundproofing industry was the day that the soundproofing world changed forever. Mass loaded vinyl is one of the highest rated and top selling soundproofing materials on the market today and was developed as a non-toxic replacement for lead sheeting, which had been used for years as a soundproofing agent. American mass loaded vinyl consists of a high-grade vinyl material that is impregnated with barium salts and silica’s (sand) to give it the same characteristics as lead. The secret to the soundproofing qualities of mass loaded vinyl lie in it sheer mass and ability to block unwanted sound transmission through walls and ceilings. Homeowners like the fact that mass loaded vinyl is safe for any room in the house. Mass loaded vinyl took the market by storm when it was first introduced. Lead sheeting was scarce and difficult to obtain in usable quantities for soundproofing, not to mention its toxic nature. Mass loaded vinyl is a completely safe, non-toxic limpid vinyl that is attached directly to studs or joists of walls and ceilings. The mass loaded vinyl is then sealed at the seams and around the perimeter with a quality acoustical caulk and used as a highly effective soundproof reflective barrier. Once the caulk has been applied, it is recommended that you tape the seams of the mass loaded vinyl only in order to maintain the membrane effect. Mass loaded vinyl has given the face of soundproofing a fresh new look and has proven itself to be a most effective sound blocking and reflective barrier material. It is the only real alternative to lead sheeting or fiberglass insulation batting. It has surpassed the standards of other popular soundproofing products and remains an economical and effective sound barrier. Mass loaded vinyl is the perfect soundproofing product for residential and commercial spaces, not to mention all industrial and studio applications. Of equal importance, mass loaded vinyl meets most building codes and is used extensively throughout the United States and Canada. Mass loaded vinyl will block the noise of high traffic areas, train and railroad crossings, aircraft and airport noise as well as a myriad of other unwanted outdoor sounds. The American mass loaded vinyl is one of the most cost effective sound reducing agents on the market today. Compared to the cost of lead sheeting and the labor involved in installing lead, mass loaded vinyl stands at the forefront of the soundproofing industry for both effectiveness and affordability.Mass loaded Vinyl is the perfect solution for noisy neighbors, city and suburban traffic noise, aircraft sounds, loud car stereos as well as a variety of intrusive indoor and outdoor noises. There is no better soundproofing barrier on the market today than American mass loaded vinyl. This product is in stock and ready for immediate delivery throughout the continental United States, Hawaii, Alaska, and Canada. If you are looking for the finest in soundproofing barriers, look no further than American mass loaded vinyl. Mass loaded vinyl is available through our online store by calling us toll free at (877) 530-0139 between the hours of 7AM and 6PM PST. There are professional technicians who can help you with all of your soundproofing issues and stand ready to take your soundproofing order and have it shipped the same day. When you are thinking soundproof barriers, think Soundproofing America, your #1 resource for quality noise control materials.

Mass Loaded Vinyl

Soundproofing America, Inc.

Soundproofing America is your one stop source for the best soundproofing materials available. No matter what your soundproofing needs entail, we have the products that will help you meet your objectives. From acoustic room treatments and mass loaded vinyl barriers to floating floor pads and pyramid panels, our soundproofing selection is second to none.
But don’t be mistaken, soundproofing involves more than just the right products. Soundproofing means knowing which products to buy for your particular situation and knowing how to use them effectively. Soundproofing America offers multiple resources on the latest tips, tricks and theory that will help you determine which products will offer the most cost effective solution for you.
Let our expertise in the soundproofing field help you make the most of your budget. You can reach us by phone from 8am to 6pm Pacific, Monday through Saturday or e-mail us anytime for expert advice that will answer any questions you may have. At Soundproofing America, we are dedicated to offering the soundproofing solutions you need at the lowest possible prices.
Soundproofing America
www.soundproofingamerica.com
e-mail scott@soundproofingamerica.com
Call toll free (877) 530-0139

More good information on Green Glue

Soundproofing America is your number one source for Green Glue. Green Glue is one of the most cost effective solutions for soundproofing large areas currently on the market. A highly advanced and easy to apply soundproofing material, Green Glue can be applied between layers of standard drywall and requires no demo to use in existing space. Green Glue has been tested in independent laboratories and has proven to be one the most impressive sound proofing products ever invented.
Green Glue works by acting as an elastic dampener between layers of drywall, and therefore allows you to maximize your current space without having to install floating walls or ceilings. Green Glue is sold by the case, and twelve tubes will cover an astonishing 192 square feet! If you’ve been searching for an easy to apply soundproofing agent that won’t break the bank, your search is over.
Soundproofing America’s low price of just $175 per case and the lowest shipping cost of any available soundproofing material makes Green Glue one of the absolute best values in noise elimination. Contact us by phone from 8am to 6pm Pacific, Monday through Saturday or e-mail us anytime for more information on ways to utilize green glue with other soundproofing materials and products for the maximum benefit.
Green Glue
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Call toll free (877) 530-0139

Green Glue is taking the Nation by Storm.

Green Glue has absolutely revolutionized the soundproofing industry and is fast becoming the best selling soundproofing agent we carry at Soundproofing America. The Green Glue is the best product on the market for soundproofing existing walls in a residential or commerical application. It also works great in and industrial situation as well. No matter what the "so called experts" at America Micro say, Green Glue has be thoroughly tested and the results are phenominal. It blocks more noise than mass loaded vinyl and is great for stopping low frequency bass noise. When you are looking for the best in soundproofing and acoustical treatment products, look no further than the professionals at www.soundproofingamerica.com The Kings of Green Glue!!!

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call toll free (877) 530-0139